Cooking -- Savannah Style

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Shad & Roe -- a Spring treat

Savannah and Low-Country Cooking

In early times, Savannah cooking and Low-Country cooking were virtually synonymous. Both cuisines are dependent on a melting pot of heritage and native ingredients. The dominant staple of cooking was the rice, originally brought over in the 17^th Century from East Africa, probably Madagascar, to South Carolina, which became the major U.S. rice growing state until the Civil War. Rice grows best when partly submerged in water, so the tidal flats offered ideal conditions.

Tomatoes, corn and hominy (hulled and dried kernels of corn from which the bran and germ have been removed) were also significant foods, with the latter being served almost daily.

From the West Indies came the compelling influence of hot and spicy foods, including peppers, cayenne, mustard and pepper sherry, a sherry spiced up with Jamaicas Scotch Bonnet pepper. Jamaican planters, or bushas used to celebrate their prowess in the saddle by throwing lavish diners to decide who would produce the hottest dishes. Jamaican cooks used this hot pepper sherry to add the right touch to soups and stews.

From Africa, by way of the islands, came benne (sesame) seeds, an East Indian herb supposedly bestowed with a charm by which one could secure entrance and exit through any portal. These seeds arrived in America on the necks of African slaves, who wore them for good luck and subsequently planted them near their quarters on the plantations. Cooks in the "big" kitchens knew how to use the aromatic seed to make delicious dishes.

The Africans also brought okra, meat jerky, greens, yams (which are sweet potatoes in America) greens, peanuts, black-eyed peas and corn meal. African cooks worked in the kitchens of the big plantation owners, combining these then-exotic ingredients into luscious, long-simmering stews, crisp and tangy deep fried foods using the spices and herbs they knew so well to turn this cuisine into among Americas finest.

Seafood and game proliferated in this coastal area and became major ingredients in Low Country cooking. Fishing was a major occupation, as was hunting duck, quail, marsh hens and deer. Both pastimes were great sport as well as productive industries.

The plentiful harvest of the sea has been a basis of Low Country dishes since the Indians harvested oysters, clams, shrimp and crabs. No one visiting the coastal areas of Georgia and South Carolina can resist the okra and seafood gumbo, oyster or crab stew, she-crab soup, roasted oysters, jambalaya, deviled crab, catfish, seafood au gratin, fried shrimp or the king of all Low-Country dishes, Low-Country Boil.

More on Southern cooking, and some typical recipes follow:

Low Country Boil

4 quarts water

1can beer

2 whole cloves garlic

2 bay leaves

4 whole black peppercorns

1 tsp hot red pepper flakes

1/3 cup Old Bay seasoning mix

8 small red bliss potatoes, cut in half

2 lbs. Smoked sausage (kielbasa or andouille)

8 ears fresh corn, halved

4 lbs. Fresh shrimp, large or jumbo

In an 8 quart pot, bring the first seven ingredients to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook at a slow boil for about 5 min., or until beginning to get tender.

Add sausage and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Add corn and continue another 7 minutes.

Add shrimp in their shells and continue for 3 to 4 minutes, until just pink.

Serve in a big bowl or simply mound on a paper-covered table. This is finger food, designed for casual eating and lots of camaraderie. Serves 8 hungry people.

Serve with a salad and some good bread or biscuits and youll have a feast that everyone will always love.

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Boiled Peanuts

If you’re from Yankee Land, chances are, the first time or two you taste a boiled peanut, you’re not going to like it. But take it from me….and every other Northerner who ever hung around in the Low Country for more than a year, eventually, someone will hand you a freshly boiled peanut and you’ll take a taste and you’ll fall in love. My own theory is that the peanut farmers around these parts pump some sort of substance into the air, which infiltrates your pores and transforms your taste buds into boiled-peanut-gobbling fanatics!

And, according to the latest peanut research, you should be grateful you now appreciate these little goobers. Boiling peanuts, it seems, brings out nearly four times more protective phytochemicals than dry, raw or roasted nuts. These chemicals protect against disease, including cancer, diabetes and heart diseases.

Once indoctrinated into the delights of peanuts, when the fresh green ones start turning up in the market in fall, your thoughts are likely to turn to how to cook those little nuggets of pleasure.

So…herewith, a bit of peanut history and peanut boiling savvy.

Because peanuts first arrived in the Low Country during the slave trading years of the 17th and 18th centuries, it’s often assumed that they originally came from Africa. Not so. These little guys hailed from Brazil and Peru.

No one seems to know exactly when folks in the South started boiling their peanuts. However, we do know that during the Civil War, both side of the conflict were eating boiled peanuts. Both meat and bread were scarce commodities in those days,. Peanuts were tasty, easy to carry and highly nutritional. They fit the bill well.

How to boil peanuts

4 or 5 pounds green, unshelled peanuts

4 or 5 quarts water

1 cup or a little more salt

Wash the nuts thoroughly in cold water. Then put them in a large pot and pour cold water over them. Make sure all the nuts are covered in water. Add salt and bring slowly to a boil. After about 3 hours, start tasting. The peanuts should be about the consistency of a cooked red bean and salty enough to please your palate. If they need more cooking, continue simmering. If they need more salt, add it.

Be careful, though. You don’t want to overcook them or over-salt them.

Happy munching!

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Vidalia® Onion Salad

Spring through summer, we in Savannah are treated to the world's best onions--Sweet Vidalias from the nearby town of Vidalia. Vidalia onions are delicious in anything that calls for onions unless you want a big shot of heat.

Try this summertime gift:

Corn, Tomato & Vidalia® Onion Salad
Makes 4 servings

1½ cups diced ripe tomatoes

1/3 cup chopped Vidalia® Onion

2 medium ears fresh corn, cooked and cooled*

15 fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/8 teaspoon salt

Salt and pepper to taste

1. In medium bowl combine tomatoes and onion. Scrape corn and juice off cobs to make about 1 cup; add to tomato mixture. Shred basil leaves; add to tomato mixture.

2. In small bowl or jar with tight-fitting lid combine vinegar, oil, and 1/8 teaspoon salt; mix well or shake to combine. Add to tomato mixture; toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate, for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
*Use 1 cup cooked frozen corn kernels if fresh corn is not available

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Shrimp and Grits - A Savannah Tradition

No dish says “Savannah!” more clearly than Shrimp and Grits. Chef Robert Stehling offers his Shrimp and Grits with Asparagus (see recipe below) as an easy and traditional Savannah meal. "This is a very traditional Low Country dish," says Chef Stehling. "At its simplest, it's just plain pan-fried shrimp with grits, but it's pretty flexible."

Savannah Shrimp and Grits with Asparagus

3 slices bacon, chopped

Peanut oil (optional)

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons flour

1-1/4 cups sliced mushrooms

1 bunch fresh asparagus, snapped and sliced on the bias into 2-inch-long pieces

1 large clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco

1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions

In a medium skillet over medium high heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until crisp, approximately 5 6 minutes. Drain the bacon on paper towels, reserve the bacon fat in pan and add peanut oil, if needed, to give you approximately 1 1/2 tablespoons.

Toss the shrimp with the flour until they are lightly coated, removing any excess flour. Over medium high heat cook the shrimp on one side, flip them and add mushrooms, bacon and asparagus. Cook until shrimp is just done, about 2-4 minutes. (Take care not to overcook the shrimp.) Add the garlic, stirring constantly so as not to brown the garlic. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice, Tabasco and green onions. Spoon over cheese grits.

Cheese Grits

4-1/2 cups water

1 cup stone ground grits

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup grated Sharp Cheddar Cheese

1/4 cup Shredded Parmesan Cheese

3 tablespoons Unsalted Cultured Butter

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco

Bring water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Whisk in the grits and salt, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the grits are thickened, approximately 35 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the cheeses, butter, pepper and Tabasco, adding more to adjust seasoning as desired. Serves 2-4
Editor's Note: For the lazy cook's version, which I prefer, just get a box of Quick Grits and follow the directions!

A Perfect Spring Dessert

Sliced Blueberries, Strawberries and Mangoes, lightly tossed with juice of half a lime and a tsp. of sugar.

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Granny Jackie’s Savannah Peach Cobbler

Ingredients:

6-8 Georgia Peaches

¼ cup water

¼ to 1/3 cup sugar

1 cup self-rising flour

2 tablespoons Crisco

2 tablespoons Butter

¼ teaspoon vanilla (optional)

¾ to 1 cup milk

dash of cinnamon

dash of nutmeg (optional)

Peel and slice peaches. Put into 8x8 or 6x9 pan. Add water. Sprinkle with sugar. Dot with butter. Add vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Topping: Cut Crisco into flour. Add milk. Stir. (This mixture should be thin enough to drizzle over peaches.) Pour over peaches. Bake at 350° for 40-50 minutes until peaches are bubbly and topping is browned

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Grandmama’s Chicken & Dumplings

Recipe By Elizabeth Leon

Ingredients:

2-3 Chicken Breasts (add more if you like)

Cream of Chicken Soup

Salt & Pepper

Frozen Dumplings (trust me, Grandmama wouldn’t use them if they didn’t taste the same as hers!)

Boil the chicken breasts in a large pot for about ½ an hour. Test to make sure they are done. Remove the chicken from the pot and pour cream of chicken soup into the water. Next add your dumplings (as many as you like) and allow to cook for 15 or 20 minutes. Finally, chop the chicken breast into smaller pieces and add to the pot. Let it cook together for a while and season to taste with salt and pepper. Voila! Chicken and Dumplings has never been this easy to make!

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Savannah Cookery, Low-Cal Style

Savannah's famous fresh shrimp and wonderful Greek heritage is celebrated in this low-cal dish designed to preserve the beauty of every willowy Southern belle

Greek Shrimp with Feta Cheese

Greek feta cheese gives this shrimp dish a tangy Mediterranean flavor.
Makes 2 servings

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/4 cup frozen chopped onion

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 large tomato, diced (1-1/4 cups)

3/4 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined

1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat olive oil in a medium-size nonstick skillet on medium-high heat and add the onion, garlic, and tomato. Sauti 3 minutes. Add shrimp and sprinkle cheese and oregano on top. Sauti 3 minutes, turning shrimp to make sure they are cooked on both sides. Remove from heat, cover with a lid, and let sit 2 minutes, or until cheese melts. Add salt and pepper to taste. Divide on 2 plates.

Per serving: 349 calories, 41.6 g protein, 9.6 g carbohydrates, 14.9 g fat (6.2 saturated), 280 mg cholesterol, 638 mg sodium, 0.9 g fiber

Romaine and Fresh Cabbage Salad

2 cups shredded washed ready-to-eat cabbage

2 cups shredded, washed, ready-to-eat romaine lettuce

2 scallions, sliced (1/4 cup)

1 teaspoon dried dill

2 tablespoons no-sugar-added oil (olive or canola) and vinegar dressing

Combine cabbage, lettuce, scallions, and dill in a bowl. Add dressing and toss well. Serve on 2 chilled salad plates.

Per serving: 104 calories, 1.4 g protein, 6.1 g carbohydrates, 8.7 g fat (1.3 saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 91 mg sodium, 1.2 g fiber

Recipes from:
MORE LOW-CARB MEALS IN MINUTES:
A Three-Stage Plan for Keeping It Off by Linda Gassenheimer
(Bay Books, January 2003, $18.95/trade paperback).

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St. Patrick's Day Specials

My first St. Patrick’s Day in Savannah, I was astounded to discover that it wasn’t only was City Market, all of downtown, and River Street filled with partying revelers. There must have been dozens, possibly hundreds, of private parties going on all over the city, all the way out to the Southside, the Islands, Tybee Island, Pooler, Bloomingdale and who knows where all else. In my own little niche in the Historic District, I was invited to seven parties, the first a bloody Irish breakfast at 7:00 am, and the last a Corn Beef and Cabbage bash starting at 10 pm.

I discovered that there’s a lot more to the Eat, Drink and Be Merry of St. Pat’s Day than just green beer! So herewith, a few things for you to serve at your own IrishDay bash.

Frog's Ass Shot

On St. Pat’s Day, forget about martinis and manhattans. Take a page from Murphys Historic Hotel in Calif., and serve up their infamous “Frog’s Ass Shot.” If Kermit tried this one, he would have to admit, “it’s easy being green!”

Here’s how it shakes up in bartender lingo: 1 count, Bacardi 151 Rum; 1 count, Bacardi Light Rum; 1 count, Malibu Rum; 1 count, Jamaican or Caribbean Coconut Rum; a splash of Midori – green melon liqueur. Shake it all up with some ice, strain into a rocks glass, and it’s bottoms up. The taste is tropical, slightly sweet and smooth enough to slide a frog on its a-double-s!

Or take a traditional Gin and Tonic, splash in just enough Midori to tint it green….and bottoms up! Of course, you could use a few drops of green food coloring as they do for the beer, but then you wouldn’t have that lovely melon flavor….

Easy Irish Stew

3 lb. lamb stew meat
1 pint chicken stock
1 pint beef stock
1 medium onion stuck with 2 cloves
1 large bay leaf
2 large garlic cloves
2 whole allspices
1 tsp. salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon thyme
Parsley sprig
3 thinly sliced medium onions
3 leeks split in half and cut in small dice
Additional bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
4 medium potatoes, finely diced
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Put the meat and all other ingredients except for the potatoes and chopped parsley into the liquid. Bring to a boil, skim off any scum, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, 1-1/2 hours, and then test the meat for tenderness. If it still seems a bit tough, keep simmering until it is tender.

Add the diced potatoes. Cook 30 minutes, until the stew is slightly thickened by the potatoes, then taste for seasoning. You may find it needs more salt -- 1 to 2 teaspoons should be sufficient -- a few more grinds of pepper, and a touch more of nutmeg. Let this cook a little to blend with the stew, then add the chopped parsley and cook just 1 minute more. Serve. Irish soda bread and a crisp butter lettuce salad would round out the meal nicely.

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A Low Country Thanksgiving Dinner As it is throughout America, Turkey Day is beloved in the South. Although I’ve never found any two Southerners, be they from Savannah or the Low Country or out of state, who completely agree on what is a MUST for Thanksgiving Dinner, the following are some wonderful and beloved specialties you might want to try if they’re not already in your repertoire. Whether you’re serving turkey, duck, pheasant or Cornish game hens, whether your sides are Brussels sprouts or greens, green bean casserole, or a host of others, these will fit right into your Low Country Turkey-Day. Have fun! Aunt Nina’s seafood dip 6 oz. Whipped cream cheese 6 oz. Can tiny shrimp, drained 6 oz. fresh crabmeat, drained and thoroughly picked over to eliminate any shell or cartilage ¼ stick butter, softened 1 tsp. sweet paprika 1 tsp. hot paprika 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp. Ground coriander ½ cup finely minced celery and green pepper 1 tbsp. Fresh grated Parmesan Dash or two of Tabasco sauce Thoroughly mix together all of the ingredients. If dip seems too dry, add a tbsp or two of mayonnaise. If it seems too moist, add a little more Parmesan. Served with celery sticks, carrot sticks, radish and cucumber slices. Bacon-wrapped bread sticks 1 Box of Italian bread sticks (Grissini) plain, seeded or garlic flavored 1 pkg. Of bacon (not thick; thinner the better) Grated Parmesan or grated Cheddar Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Wrap each breadstick with bacon (need not completely cover the stick) Place on a cookie sheet and bake for 20-30 minutes, till bacon is just crisp. While hot, toss with cheese till melted. Serve with cocktails. Thanksgiving Whiskey Sour 1-1/2 oz. Good Kentucky Bourbon 2 oz. Whiskey Sour Mix (or to taste) Dash of Cranberry Liqueur Top with sweetened cranberries on a toothpick instead of cherry Bourbon Baked Sweet Potatoes 5-6 red-fleshed sweet potatoes Splash of extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper 1-rounded tsp. grated fresh ginger 2 lg. pinches ground cinnamon 1 lg.pinch of ground cloves Zest of one orange 4 tblsp. butter, melted and cooled a bit 1/3 cup brown sugar 2 tsp. sweet paprika 1/3 cup maple syrup Splash of milk (2 tblsp. or so) Splash of bourbon (2tblsp. or so) 2 cups chopped toasted pecans Roast or microwave the potatoes till barely tender enough to easily peel and cut. Let cool, then peel and either slice or cut into chunks. You can either mash them or leave chunky (my preference). Pre-heat oven to 375. Mix together the potatoes, olive oil, salt & pepper, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, orange zest, brown sugar and paprika. Then add maple syrup, milk, bourbon and pecans and mix thoroughly again. Place the mixture in a lightly oiled (vegetable or canola) baking dish and bake for about 25 minutes or until cooked through. This dish can be refrigerated and re-heated on the big day. Note: Marshmallows can be added if you must. Just run them under the broiler till they start to melt. Bluffton Oyster Pie 2 pints Bluffton oysters 1 tbsp. Canola or Vegetable oil 3 tbsp. butter 2 sleeves of Ritz crackers, crushed 1 ½ tsp. Kosher salt 1 tsp.white pepper 2 cups heavy cream 1 tbsp.Worcestershire sauce dash of Tabasco ¼ cup dry sherry 1 tbsp. Butter Glass baking dish Directions: Melt butter in frying pan. Add saltines and toss 5 minutes. Drain oysters and reserve liquid. Salt and pepper oysters. Mix half and half or whipping cream, sherry, Worcestershire sauce, and reserved liquid. Beginning and ending with buttered crackers, layer crackers and oysters. Pour cream mixture over top and dot with the tablespoon of butter. Bake at 350 for 30 minutes. Savannah Pecan Pie Many of my friends in Savannah insist that no Thanksgiving dinner can possibly end with anything other than pecan pie. Herewith, one friend’s recipe. 3 eggs, beaten 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup dark corn syrup 1 teaspoon good brandy 1/4 cup melted butter 1 cup coarsely chopped pecans 1 unbaked pie shell, 9-inch, pricked in several places Mix eggs, sugar, salt, corn syrup, brandy and melted butter. Spread pecans in the bottom of pie shell. Pour in egg mixture. Bake at 350° for 50 to 60 minutes, until filling is set and firm. Pecans will rise to the top and form a crusty layer. Apple-Sausage Stuffing (for 12 to 18 lb. Bird) 1 lb. Jimmy Dean Sage sausage 12 oz. Stove Top Turkey stuffing mix 1-1/2 cups water 1-1/2 cups chicken stock 1 stick butter, cut into pieces 3 apples – red, yellow, green 1 cup chopped and sautéed onion, green pepper and celery handful of fresh sage leaves (just strip them off the stems) Mash and crumble the sausage, sautéing slowly, till it’s nice and crumbly and cooked through. Set aside to cool Coarsely dice all the apples. Mix apples, onion mixture, sage leaves, stuffing mix, liquids, and butter together, blending as you go. Blend thoroughly, and if needed, add more liquid and butter. When sausage is completely cooled, add to the stuffing mixture. Blend all together very thoroughly without mashing. May be refrigerated for a few hours. Stuff turkey, packing lightly. Place remainder of stuffing in lightly greased baking pan and bake during last half hour turkey is cooking. Note: This is super-simple and always brings raves from all who eat it!

Happy Cooking!

You can buy these books at a discount
-- order from Amazon

Savannah Seasons: Food and Stories from Elizabeth on 37th by Elizabeth Terry

Mrs. Wilkes' Boardinghouse Cookbook: Recipes and Recollections from Her Savannah Table by Sema Wilkes, John T. Edge, Mrs. Wilkes Boardinghouse Restaurant

A Love Affair with Southern Cooking by Jean Anderson

The Lady & Sons Just Desserts: More Than 120 Sweet Temptations from Savannah's Favorite Restaurant by Paula H. Deen

The Lady & Sons Savannah Country Cookbook by Paula H. Deen

The Lady & Sons, Too!: A Whole New Batch of Recipes from Savannah by Paula H. Deen

Carolina Cooking by Debra Zumstein and Wil Kazary