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Welcome to Savannah, America's Most Beautiful City
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By Cima Star |
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Eos, named for the Greek “Goddess of the New Dawn,” burst into bloom in Thomas Square early in May. Owners Shelley Smith and Brian Torres transformed a formerly non-descript little soul-food take-out place (originally a bank building) into a delightful small-plate Food and Wine Bar bursting with casually sophisticated décor and charming interior, plus an outdoor patio for al fresco dining beloved by so many. Combined with a menu to delight the most discriminating diner and a wine list designed for the true oenophile.
I’ve been back several times since that opening weekend and thus far with nary a disappointment. For those of us with relatively small appetites, but who love good food, and lots of tastes, the “small plate” concept rapidly catching fire here in Savannah is perfect. The Wild Georgia Shrimp & Somen Noodle Salad appetizer was a surprise. Not because the shrimp was good—as long as you’re using the Wild Georgia version, it is nearly always good. But rarely perfect. Shrimp’s a forgiving little morsel, difficult for a careful cook to ruin. But difficult to get absolutely perfect. A few seconds too long, a few seconds too little cooking, and it’s either a tad too firm or soft. This little gem was precisely to-the-second right. The green tea noodles dressed in honey and sake elevate it to food for the heavens. Among the entrée-style small plates, another lovely example of a superior hand in the kitchen is the Prince Edward Mussels. Sautéed with white wine, grape tomatoes and caviar, the delicate flavor of the mussels is enhanced but in no way overpowered. A friend had the Beef Wellington, a buttery tenderloin with apple-smoked bacon and mushroom duxelle encased in a light pastry and served with shallot whipped potatoes and garlic flavored fresh, spring asparagus. Another tribute to the chef. Another friend tried the Duck Dumplings, a duck confit served with delicious gnocchi and cherry tomatoes in the chef’s herb butter. Open for brunch on weekends, we dropped in for a late sampling. I decided to stick with the namesake, The New Dawn, consisting of two sunny side up eggs, served with sautéed shitake mushrooms and fresh, warmed spinach, pan roasted tomatoes, with truly luscious grill-toasted sourdough. The eggs were as eggs should be, fresh and cooked as I like (easy-over). All was good. Personally, those mushrooms and spinach alone could provide a heavenly lunch for me; same for the pan-roasted tomatoes, so good and fresh they tasted like bright bursts of sunshine in my mouth. My companion had the Salmon BLT, served on a fresh croissant with bacon, lettuce, tomato, and a caper aioli with a salad. All superior, said my guest. What’s more, he pronounced the grilled salmon the best he’d eaten in years. The current wine list is small but excellent, and a vastly expanded list is promised as EOS grows. If this place lives up to its fine beginning, EOS will certainly be the new dawn of fine, casual dining in the area. -- CS Questions? Comments? Email Cima.
EOS |
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