Sapphire Grill

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Sapphire Grill
By Cima Star








When you enter the front door of the Sapphire Grill, you just might think you've gone through a time warp, back to the early Seventies when glitz discos sported hard-edged, high-tech, metallic decor beneath high ceilings and flashing strobe lights. No strobes here, but the rest has a cool, edgy look unlike much else in Savannah.

The menu is also far from average Savannah fare. Although it features steak, chicken, duck, grouper, sushi-grade tuna, lamb (curiously, there is no veal), which might sound like your average Savannah eatery, these items are raised to a level often found only in Manhattan or Los Angeles.

The duck, for instance, is Muscovy duck, offered by many of the major city menus elsewhere, but new to Savannah. Native to the tropical climates of South America, this bird needs no fat to protect it against cold weather, and thus is the leanest and meatiest of all ducks with a flavor that can seem something halfway between duck and tenderloin of beef.

Here, the duck breast lies atop a slice of fois gras, bedded by a potato-shallot pancake, which could stand all by itself. Anointing this dish is caramelized mango and a mango demi-glace, garnished with fresh, crisp watercress.

The black grouper, encrusted with benne (sesame) seeds, is served with lemon perfumed jasmine rice and a cucumber salad with a flavor reminiscent of Vienna.

Appetizers, soups and salads are fanciful and transcendant, presented with the same lavish attention to art as the entrees. One particular delight is the bene-encrusted, buttermilk marinated calamari, served with a coriander lime pesto and chiffonade of apple mint. Another culinary triumph is the lobster, corn and celery heart bisque, hearty with lobster flavor and lightly fired up with a bit of spice. Nov. 2003

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Sapphire Grill
110 West Congress St.
Tel: 443-9962
Entrees range from: $20-$40











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