Visit to Germany

Welcome to Savannah, America's Most Beautiful City

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Savannah Girl im Deutschland
By Kelli Nottingham

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The curse has come again, I thought, as I stared vainly over the conveyor belt, as if the flames from my eyes alone would be enough to coerce my luggage to magically appear. I leave the airport yet again with only the clothes on my back and the few paltry possessions in my carry-on: a mystery novel, a bottle of contact solution, a tangled knitting project, and thankfully, my German dictionary. It’s a good thing my boyfriend, who lives in Berlin, proved yet again his thoughtfulness, by welcoming me with a sandwich and a dark beer. Ah, Germany!

This was my second trip to Germany, my first time there in summer, and expectations of beautiful weather and lovely vistas were not disappointed. And fortunately, my accursed luggage arrived the next day from its foray through the Twilight Zone. While I have only spent approximately one month traveling through this beautiful and mystical country, I feel qualified to distribute several pieces of travel advice to those who may take the plunge and visit Germany. I’ve summed up three important points as follows:

(1) History is everywhere, so watch where you step!

Germany has had an incredible history, both dark and uplifting. One point that constantly appears to visitors is the depth and intensity of Germany’s history and people. In Berlin, the remnants of Soviet occupation lie scattered between modern high-rises and quirky cafes. Historical buildings have been painstakingly rebuilt after the destruction of World War II, and it’s incredible to see 60 year-old photos of the decimated city center while sitting in a quaint Biergarten in that same part of the city.

I am a particular fan of medieval and Renaissance history, so traipsing through Europe throws me into fits of intellectual ecstasy. Germans, as a whole, are exceptionally well educated and interested in history, so the protected historical sites available to tourists are impressive.

Bavaria, in the southern part of the country, arguably stands as the proudest and most charming of the German states. It certainly is my favorite. It is in Bavaria that the famous Munich Oktoberfest takes place, where men traditionally wore Lederhosen and women wore dirndls. And while you can still occasionally see men in lederhosen and beer is very readily available, there is much more to this lovely, lush region. Mad King Ludwig II built his fantasy castles here, including Neuschwanstein, his most famous building project.

Gorgeous Baroque churches drip with elaborate ornamentation, and monasteries set high in the mountains still brew their centuries old recipes for herbal liqueurs. Local citizens still follow traditional customs. Maypoles, for example, stand proudly in the centers of tiny villages. These painted and decorated wooden poles often have depictions of the various guilds represented in the village: butchers, farmers, bakers, and the ubiquitous brewer. These professions still exist, although the tides of modernity (and new supermarkets) have begun to undermine the locally run shops. It is wonderful to many of us from America, who consider 150 years to be ancient past, to walk in the midst of traditions that are many centuries old.

(2) Go outside!

Another general observation of Germans involves their love of the outdoors, particularly in the realm of sports. A trip to the country in January introduced me to the world of cross-country skiing, a popular sport for kids and adults. Even very elderly people put on their skis and absolutely tear up the course. Farmers allow the local ski clubs to groom their unused snow-covered fields for free cross-country skiing areas. Skiers park on the side of the road, jump into their ski boots, and go.

The scenery is beautiful all year round, and hiking and Nordic walking are popular. (Nordic walking utilizes hand-poles, similar to cross country skiing but without the snow and skis). Even wakeboarding and water-skiing are crowd favorites, as evidenced by the opening of a man-made water park outside of Berlin that features a system of ropes and pulleys to provide the pull needed for the sports, without the hassle of a boat!

Even for the non-athletically inclined, the scenery of Germany is stunning. In the north, wide green fields sprout meadows of wild red poppies. You can see rolling hills supporting hops farms further south. Germany’s hops are world famous, which is one reason why traditional German beer is so prized. Hops are grown on tall wooden and wire trellises, some up to 30 feet high. The rolling hills grow into mountains in the deep south of Germany. For those of us used to seeing the unvarying flatness of coastal Georgia, the misty, snow-covered Alps are breathtaking.

One rather surprising aspect of the landscape, particularly in and around Berlin, is the number of navigable canals and waterways. One popular pastime in this particular region is canoeing and kayaking on these small canals. They feel so peaceful and secluded, surprising considering how close they are to major metropolitan development.

Quaint, locally owned Inns and restaurants have grown up on the banks of the water. Most feature docking areas so that paddlers can take a break, grab something to eat, and jump back into their boats to continue on. Several small, manually operated locks squat across the major canals, and one of my favorite memories was working the latches and doors so our kayaks could get through these locks. Small tour boats also grace these canals, propelled by long poles that the driver uses to push off the bottom of the canal, much like the famous gondoliers of Venice, Italy. Passengers can ride in comfort while watching the wildlife and dreamy scenery pass by.

Because Germans treasure their natural resources so deeply, recycling is mandatory. Trashcans in train stations have separate compartments for various recyclables, and in general, the population here is not as interested as Americans in disposable items. U.S. citizens could learn a valuable lesson from the German environmental example.

(3) Fried Food is Universal (or How I Ate My Way Through Germany)

One question repeatedly rears its ugly head upon my return from a visit to Germany: How was the food? Generally, this question is asked with a slight crinkling of the nose and one cocked eyebrow, as if the answer is self-evident: bratwurst, sauerkraut, and pretzels day in and day out? How can a person survive on such miserable food?

What a fallacy! While yes, Germans love their pretzels (they're fantastic hot and buttered), there are so many wonderful variations of German cuisine that one is never bored.

Traditional fare generally consists of hearty, home style meals. Meat, usually pork or beef, potatoes and other root vegetables, and warm bread do make up a significant amount of the typical German's meals. However, there are incredible dishes that have been incorporated into daily life here, particularly Turkish food. A heavy influx of Turkish immigrants in the past century has peppered Germany with delicious dishes consisting of spiced lamb and yogurt sauces.

Asparagus is another frequently seen item for recipes. It's one of my personal favorites, so I was thrilled to buy white asparagus by the kilogram from farmers on the side of a village road.

And no mention of German food would be complete without mentioning one of my favorite items. The cheese house in any village is worth a visit to those of us who can't resist a nibble. This is often one of my first and favorite stops when visiting. The variety is incredible, such as Gouda that comes in various ages (the 5 year is delicious).

Honorable mention goes to the cold cuts sold in many butcher shops that are specifically created for children (or those of us who refuse to grow up!). You can purchase a slice with the face of a bear, since the bear is one traditional symbol for Germany. I was more excited than I care to admit when purchasing a variety of cold cuts, and the butcher secretly included two slices with the bear. In true tourist fashion, I took a picture of it. Hopefully no one noticed.

The key with German cuisine, as with any new food, is to give it a try. Ask the locals what they like, or peek over at the next table and see what they order. You won't be disappointed. And after you indulge in a delicious meal in the guesthouse of your choice and no longer have room for dessert, remember to look back up at Rule #2. A walk around the building might help!

Hopefully these three little rules will inspire anyone planning a trip to this lovely and intriguing country. Personally, I can't wait for the next trip. There is always something new to discover in this country of ancient and modern.

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Photos by Kelli Nottingham

 

 

 

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