Panama

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A Southern Boy Moves South
by Marlin J. Pritzker

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was born and raised in the deep South, land of rice and beans and greens and pork, of grits and seafood stews. Life was good in the South. Then, as a young man, courtesy of Uncle Sam, I’d had a sojourn in Boston. There I met and ultimately married a Yankee lady. We bought a little house in a little town just north of Boston and raised four Yankee kids. Improbably, we remained in that same house in the same town for more than 25 years.

I came to feel pretty much a Yankee, losing most of my drawl, trading gumbo in for vichyssoise; joining the high-speed life of the Northeast, involved in various civic and political organizations and working hard at a non-stop high pressure job.

Still, deep inside, my heart beat to a slower, more southerly rhythm.

Eventually, the marriage died of natural causes, so, kids grown and scattered, I headed south, this time to Miami Beach, considered by countless Americans the premium retirement spot of the nation. I still worked for the same company, but life on the Beach was slower

I lived in a penthouse overlooking the sea. Evenings and weekends were idled away on the beach or lolling in the seductively warm waters, and charmed by the gorgeous Latin women and Latin music that thrummed through the town. My heart began to beat to an ever more southerly drum. I met and wed a Brazilian beauty and we lived on in that penthouse for nearly 15 years, dividing our time between work, sun and surf, and casino cruises off the island.

And often we visited Central and South America. It didn’t take long after we retired to decide to move southward. We toyed with the idea of Costa Rica or Genny’s native Brazil, but the climate, the culture and the cost of living of Panama won out, hands down.

Besides, Central America seems fitting for a North American-South American duo.

The American presence here in Panama is substantial, as it has been since the early 20th Century when in 1903, the U.S. took over the failed attempts of Fernando Maria Vizconte DeLesseps to build one of the great wonders of the world.

Looking at the canal now at either end, it is an astounding feat of engineering. When you realize much of the earthmoving and sophisticated machinery available today didn’t exist in the late 1800s, and early 20th century it becomes awe inspiring. The best way to visualize this building miracle is to cross over the Canal at Gatun and watch how quickly the gates close and water is released or filled to take on the next vessel.

But neither Panama City, nor Panama itself, is all about the canal. The city boasts stunning historic homes and magnificent cathedrals, monuments and statuary. Pristine beaches, two oceans, mountains, lakes and jungles await the exploring visitor. Many islands are within easy reach of the mainland and several resorts are located in San Blas, Bocas del Toro, Contadora Tobago and others, some of which are currently being developed for living and visiting.

We can swim in the Pacific and about an hour and a half later drive to the Atlantic and swim the warmer waters of the Caribbean. In between the two coasts are mountains, volcanoes, and of course jungles, which take advantage of the very warm climate and tropical rainfall. The colors are incredible and difficult to explain since the myriad shades of green in the hills, lakes and mountains are indescribable.

For an American, life in Panama is easy. The American dollar is the currency. There are no exchange rates because the dollar is the dollar. You never have to exchange the dollar. Panama has used it since 1904 and United States Dollars are used as the basis for trade and banking. Prices are quoted in Balboas, but they are only coins in the same denomination as the US. Paper money is the US Dollar.

Banks charge roughly the same rate for mortgages and loans, and pay about the same rates for savings accounts and CDs as in the US.

Panamanians are Spanish speaking, but have varied origins from the Caribbean to Columbia, Costa Rico, to Mexico, and more. Some English is spoken, but most working people do not acknowledge speaking the language, so that a little schooling in elemental Spanish is suggested, not unlike Miami.

Because of the recent interest in inviting outsiders to visit and live in Panama, many projects are underway, with apartments and single homes or townhouses costing from $50,000 to well over $3 million. One of the advantages that the government has provided for new purchases is a 20-year moratorium on real estate taxes, which is attracting developers from around the world.

Just in the capital city there are more than 250 projects currently being built or planned with some major developers such as Donald Trump among the investors. He has a project, not yet started but which is almost sold out, of apartments in the higher ranges of $350,000 and up. He also is planning a large Casino, which will add to the many casinos already in action in virtually all of the cities.

Traveling about, you always see the Kuna Indians in their colorful dress, selling hand made items at booths or on blankets on sidewalks. Such things as Molas, collars-necklaces, bracelets, paintings on paper as well as on feathers, are among the many items to be found at these stalls. Since prices are flexible it is wise to try for better price, just as you would in Europe or the Middle East.

The cost of living is the icing on the Panamanian cake. The average wage in Panama is about $400.00 per month. An income of $2-$3,000 per month puts you at the top of the wage chain. You can easily live on that amount and cover a live-in maid, rent or mortgage, automobile payments, although taxis are only about a dollar or two in Panama City and all the other necessities of life.

Fruits and vegetables of every description are abundant year round. Fish and shellfish, marvelously fresh, are a big bargain. Meat and poultry are about the same as in the U.S.

Restaurants, nightclubs and casinos offer entertainment at bargain basement prices. Cuisine derives from the Caribbean, Brazil, Mexico, and a good many other regions. Once again, I eat rice and beans, greens and pork and luscious seafood stews. Living to a Latin beat is easy in Panama.

It’s a nice place to visit … a great place to live.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 photos courtesy M.J. Pritzker
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